Perfect for cleaning removed bridge bottems, Nut slots,..Being a little sloppy on clean ups,..It's a goo. so it doesn't soak in...Leaving all your glue work strong and safe.
Guild of American Luthiers
Mike Tagawa's product review in American Luthier, fall 2006. CLICK HERE for photos.
Kit Guitars Forum
Most of you experienced woodworking guys probably already know about this stuff, but I wanted to tell about it for those who don't. I didn't know there was a glue remover that would take water based glues off without damaging a finish. So I was living with some UHGGly squeeze out on a bridge and around a fretboard: I had put too much glue on.
So, yesterday, I'm reading the Guild of American Lutherie (GAL) journal, and there an article on this stuff. Supposedly works with all waterbased glues (Hide glue, Titebond and LMI White glue, etc), even if they've been dry for a long time. Looked it up, called the local Woodcraft store, went and got a bottle. It's thick, smells like vinegar.
I have heard and read about De-Glue Goo, and I've been wanting to try it, but until last week I hadn't "gotten around to it".
Anyway, a friend of mine who works in a shop where I used to work said the "new guy" there is the guy who makes De-Glue Goo, and that he wanted to stop by and meet me. They stopped by one morning, and the "new guy" turned out to be a furniture restorer whom I worked for, briefly, about 25 years ago. We worked together at a cabinet shop for a while after that, and now he's doing part of the work I used to do for the instrument maker I used to work for.
So that's the "small world" aspect of the situation, and here are my initial impressions of the product.
He gave me a sample bottle of De-Glue Goo, and I've tried in on a couple of things. First, I glued a spruce scrap to a rosewood scrap with hot hide glue, deliberately leaving some squeeze-out. After the glue dried, I coated the squeeze-out with De-Glue Goo, and scraped the glue right off with the edge of a "pre-approved" credit card. The color did not bleed from the rosewood onto the spruce, and both types of wood show no evidence of the procedure.
Next experiment, I'm restoring a 1941 Martin D-18. It's had an unknown number of bridges glued on with several kinds of glue, over the years. I coated the bridge "scar" with De-Glue Goo, and the various glues started to look about like they did before they dried. There was a lot of white wood glue filling voids where the spruce had been chipped out, and even some of the original hide glue that Martin used. It took some scraping, several applications, and some brushing with an old tooth brush, but I eventually got all the glue and adhesive off, leaving the wood looking clean and almost new. The lacquer on the guitar top around the bridge area shows no signs of and contact with the De-Glue Goo.
So anyway, the stuff works, I know the guy who makes it, and I know that he is a pro who knows wood, and glue, and furniture, and finishes, and is now building instruments. That's where I learned a lot of the stuff I know about wood, glue, and finishes.
Just thought I'd pass along the info to other builders and repairers because I can imagine many uses in both building and repair.
Modern Custom Classics
Glue squeeze-out eventually will build up on your parallel clamps and impact the operation of the clamp. In this video I'll use De-glue Goo to remove the dried glue, and wax to protect the clamp in the future.